Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 27

Thread: The supposedly guide to the power supply funda

  1. #1
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Age
    26
    Liked
    0 times
    Posts
    107

    Default The supposedly guide to the power supply funda



    Scaring the woolies out of people with this pic. So I thought I would make it more dramatic and scary using my silly little paint skills and my camera.
    Nothing great, but its a shame to run those fine hardware on a stupid psu. Issued in public interest.
    Alternate Link to this pic if you cant see it:
    http://www.imgx.org/pfiles/8081/untitled.JPG
    ====
    What is a power supply?
    In a nutshell, power supply converts AC into DC and distributes power to the power according to the pc's needs. There are 2 types of psu- the first is irrelevant and non feasible for a pc- even for an enthusiast. Second one is the one we use-switching mode power supplies AKA SMPS. I'll try to keep this advice as "non- technical" as possible, but if you cant understand, please make efforts to google it.
    Before we continue let me clarify 2 things-
    #1. just because a power is a 700 watt based psu which gives a 60 amps- doesnt mean it will consume all of it- If a pc requires less, it will take less or else more. If you buy an overpower psu and your system utilises 1/4 part of its potential, its a waste. As a good friend of mine told- the system should use atleast 75% of the power supplies' potential.
    #2. Just because full form of smps is switching mode power supplies- doesnt mean there's a switch behind. If you want to know what do they mean by switching, make some efforts and google for it.
    -
    What should you expect from this guide?
    I will not use any formulas and I will try to prevent any technical jargon as much as possible- but for God's sake make efforts to use google. Even I have a book knowledge. "Wattage = Voltage * Amperage" is something which even a 6th standard school boy knows. We are living in a section of the society run by economics. Very few manufacturers actually tell the truth on the specs on the side panel. Book knowledge is accessible by many, but street smart is something that is is acquired. This is just a guide but a ball in your court. Some people ask me via PM with great fascination about power supply, while there are certain individuals questioning something which is fact. Knowledge is meant to be spread- that is why I am being in number of forums I try to help what I can- but at the end of the day nothing beats research. Besides the ball is in your court- your money your wish.
    -
    Why think about power supply now?
    More systems becomes sophisticated but it will need a proper supply for pc's long term health. In reality- psu is responsible for more than half of the pc hardware problem. After the days of AMD 64 athlon, power supply is the vital part of the system. Till those days, l&c, VIP, ZEBRONICS, intex and some el cheapos like odessey. In those days, zebronics and l&c (now VIP) WERE good power supplies. Then came cm extreme 500w and the way we look at power supplies has changed a bit.
    -
    What are the problems from using underpowered power supply/el cheapo power supply?
    Anything. A low-quality power supply can cause several problems, which are mostly difficult to be solved. A defective or bad-intentioned power supply can lock the PC, can result in hard disk bad sectors, can result blue screen of death errors and random resets and freezings, added to many other problems. There have been cases that spikes have fried southbridge, northbridge and even onboard graphic and sound chips. Hard drive and ram are usually the first victims. People eventually spend 1000-5000 (depending on their system) to get it working. But in reality it works barely but its a damaged wreck. Prevention is better than cure, dont you think?
    -
    How do you judge a power supply?
    Not by watts- change that mentality if you have that. There have been cases that unethical dealers and even idiotic people give away the ones which bundle with silly cases. When you talk about these so called high performance power supply- they say its over exaggerated. Its a fact that dealers will try to sell away things which they have in stock and people have a bad habit of buying anything cheap. They need to learn some new set of words- VALUE FOR MONEY. People with half knowledge of computers claim that an average 800 watt can topple a "high performance" power supply with a rating of 400w. Tell them to wake up and smell the coffee- using half the knowledge is more dangerous than no knowledge at all. Power supply manufacturers over exaggerate- its a marketing gimmick. Most probably it pulls 800w from the socket but it will definatly give theoratical supply of 390w to the pc.
    -
    Why would an el cheapo rated 800w give only 390w? Where are the rest going to? How do I judge a power supply?
    There's something very important called efficiency. Higher the efficiency, lesser the power wasted. As I said before (if you read properly) power supply converts AC into DC. If you want to know what is AC and DC power- make efforts to google. When AC gets converted to DC- heat is produced. Major chunk of power is wasted on this heat. Its a reality that there wont be 100% power conversion for a feasible smps unless something ground breaking is invented. Quality of the pcb circuit board, quality and thickness of cabling, cooling, capacitors and other electric components with a good casing assures proper efficiency. Companies makes big promises but its an inevitable process that a well known pc enthusiast, reviewer and in some cases ethical and knowledgeable dealers will give you proper advice.
    In order to get a good enough power supply, you need to make efforts to google and use some common sense. Over the years have passed and the importance of +12v rails have come out. Its always necessary that you proper amps for your system. There An average system can survive with 19 amps on +12v rails.
    -
    What do you mean +12v rails?
    In a nutshell it powers majority of the system through many types of connectors. Here are the following connectors:
    Main motherboard connector- in old system its a 20 plug connector- in the new ones, they are 24 power connectors. It powers major chunk of your your motherboard. In most of the new age good performance power supply- 20 pin can be detatched from the 4 pin. That is why many companies call it as 20+4 connectors. But not all companies who say 20+4 connectors necessarily means 20 pin can be split from the 4.
    ATX12V connector- Its a 4 pin connector which powers another part of the motherboard. Its also a vital connector and must be connected at all times.
    EPS12V connector- Same purpose as the ATX12v connector. But it gives more power which is used by high end motherboards. It has a 8 pin port. Most good reputed power supplies can split EPs 12v connector into 2 atx12v connector. Other either have one EPS 12v connector or atx 12v connector.
    There are idiots out there (including so called engineers) who put atx 12v on a eatx12v plug (Note: some motherboards call the 8 pin plug on the mother either mention atx12v or eatx 12v) on the motherboard and expect it to run on full capacity. Its not that you cant do- but its best if you dont.
    PCI-E connector- Its a connector which powers your graphic card. Some use 6 pin, some use 8 pin. This is another scenario where you need to do justice to the system. If you are assembling it on your own, make efforts to read the manual. Through some miraculous effort some people manage to connect 8 pin EPS12V connector on a PCI-E plug on the graphic card. This is where people make another great mistake and a possibility of a short circuit increases. For once, make efforts to read the power supply's manual- they are with a power supply for a reason. Some psu manufacturers engrave the type of connectors on the connectors itself. Welcoming for many, but if its not- it doesnt hurt to read a power supply. Many power supply come with multiple pci-e connector. It means that they can power up more than one mid range-to-high end graphic cards. But its recommended if you have atleast 50 proven amps on the +12v rails- or else a burnt power supply will be the last thing in your mind.
    4 pin molex- This powers components like dvd writers, hard drives, 4 female pin molex connector based fans, fancy LED/cold cathode lights (used to decorate their system like a christmas tree) and stuff. In case of IDE type drivers, they connect the molex directly. But in case of sata- you need a sata power connector. While the new and proper have direct sata power connector, if you have old you can use molex to sata power converter. I doubt it costs more than 50 bucks, but you need to make sure that you get ample amount of sata power connectors and also molex connectors. Same thing applie for molex to pci-e converter. Majority of the companies gives this as an add-on with their graphic card. I would still recommend the direct ones.
    Sata power connector- A welcoming and a useful add-on on new age power supply. They are thin and it connects to sata based drives.
    Floppy connectors- Its a smaller sized connector which usually powers up floppy disks. However there are certain type of devices which requires floppy connectors- like sound cards. Asus have sound cards that require extra power. It makes sense than implementing a new type of connector. Something which you always get in standard supplies.
    -
    What is pfc?
    Long story made short- power factor correction. They simply contribute in regulating AC power input in the power supply. The modern ones we get are active pfc- or else they are obsolete and not recommended. If you want to know the difference, best if you meake efforts to google it.
    -
    How a cooling of a power supply is maintained?
    Fans and small heatsinks in certain components inside the psu. Usually the fans on the power supply suck air from inside to outside. Some fans are on the side where the cables come out from and others are on the base- usually with 120mm or even 140mm fan.Certain suck air from out to in and some blow air from in to out. Both are right but based on the pc case. The cases I prefer is where I can mount the powersupply on the base and there are air vents on the bottom. In any blow-suck air scenario fresh air is supplied and vented out- so there's always fresh air coming in and blown out. However there are also top mounted cases. If your room temps is around 27-28 degrees celcius in an average and ambience in the case is around 35 degrees Celcius and the power supply pushes air from inside to out- there's nothing to worry about. But if the air is blown from out to inside the case, there might be some disturbance. Overlockers will have some problems since the hot air from the power supply can interact with the heatsink which will disturb the basic air flow distribution funda.
    -
    What about dual/multiple rails
    Another marketing gimmick and a cost cutting measure. In reality, Dual/multiple +12v rails are nothing but a single +12v output divided from the start inside a psu. Because of this, you do loose some amount of amps and DC output. The reason manufacturers do this is because to save money on capacitors, wiring, pcb board and others which contribute to effiency. If they split rails into 2 extensions, they can degrade the quality of the components used in a power supply. But in reality- users need to remember that only single rail can give out more amps and more DC output compared to multiple rails. Granted- high efficiency power supply with powerful amps on single +12v rails are expensive- but its way better than getting ripped off from fancy named power supply. There are companies which use fancy terminology as +12v1 and +12v2 and call them independent- but they are not. Most probably sata/Molex connectors are on a separa wire from the 24 pin Manufacturers also blind users by calling dual rails as sli/crossfire capable however just distribute equal number of pci-e connector on the +12v extensions. But in reality single rail can have dual/multiple pci-e. There 18amps on first +12v rail and 18 amps on +12v rail does not mean 36 amps- it just means you are just getting 18 amps.
    -
    So the money that I pay is only for the power supply?
    Nope. You also pay for the power cable as well. Some provide really good power cable for the power supply which has a blow fuse on the socket itself. If they are damaged due to a spike during power distribution- they will prevent. Note that the blow fuse on the surge protectors and on the power supply's power cable (if it has) will help only to prevent- not stop- any unexplained spike in power distribution. Sleeving and wire quality is also pretty important.
    -
    Why do companies rip people off by putting fancy wattage
    I advise people- I dont work for manufacturers. Some small manufacturers pass under the scanner. Some manufacturers claim that it s a theoratical wattage calculation that us pulled from the power socket at maximum load and not the theoratical wattage on the DC output power so they get away from potential lawsuit. However not all are cheaters- some are very conservative in putting the wattage chap. This is where you need to learn to do research- nothing beats google....yet.
    -
    What about watts calculator- are they recommended?
    They calculate either maximum, average or minimum output- that's why calculations vary from one watts calculator to another. So it depends on the calculators you use. Besides the watts that are calculated are accurate. Mathematically they are, but you need to acknowledge that power supply will only pull more power from the socket if it needs to. If the system is idle- it takes low power- if you are using cpu or gpu intensive based programs, it will pull out more power.
    -
    But I have been using el cheapos for a long time- why should I make the change now?
    I would suggest to read the whole guide properly. Systems always change so certain precautions are needed. If you open your improper power supply, dont be suprised if you see some capacitors start to look like that picture. If you do, consider yourself lucky that your whole precious investment didnt come up in smoke.
    If people have any questions, please feel free to ask me :-D
    Last edited by The Sorcerer; 12-16-08 at 02:25 AM.

  2. #2
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Age
    30
    Liked
    0 times
    Posts
    156

    Default

    Good Thread, I agree with you completely. I always get people asking me why to shell out extra cash for the PSU.

    Most people buy the cabinets which come bundled in with the low quality SMPS which are only rated at around 280 Watts.

    They dont last too long and make a god awful amount of noise.

  3. #3
    Lost Member sb21pro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Liked
    1 times
    Posts
    1,704

    Default

    look at the poor capacitor , wat did u do with it haa???

    please show some mercy to these electronic components

  4. #4
    ShAdOwCoN
    Guest

    Default

    Nice thread , Def serves the public interest

    Keep it up ..... rep+

  5. #5
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Age
    26
    Liked
    0 times
    Posts
    107

    Default

    This was a old picture actually-that's a 6 year old l&c 400w gold which gave out before I got my silverstone zeus 500w for my old config opty 165+ asus a8n sli deluxe (now I am using corsair tx750w). I used to put this on many forums but I wasnt sure I did put this in India boradband :P. Even if I did, the guide is something which I made up now and I had to put the guide because many companies are taking people for a ride in regards to psu. People are also taken for a ride and having wild theories about split +12v rails. I also used to maintain mega price list on tech2 forums but I help India broadband and chip now.

  6. #6
    Alligator itsmemad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Liked
    2 times
    Posts
    4,108

    Default

    Thats hell lotta info The Sorcerer... Rep awarded!

  7. #7
    Guardian Angel just4kix's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Liked
    4 times
    Posts
    10,904

    Default

    Rep given.

  8. #8
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Age
    26
    Liked
    0 times
    Posts
    338

    Thumbs up

    Hey i had bought zebronics 400 watts smps for 500 rupees last month.
    i want to add some graphics card like 8500 gt or gtx.
    is it needed to change my smps.
    if yes, could you recommend the best brand and configuration to ask for.
    if possible price too.

    And many thanks to the information.
    Last edited by prasannaganesh; 12-18-08 at 04:18 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  9. #9
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Age
    26
    Liked
    0 times
    Posts
    107

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by prasannaganesh View Post
    Hey i had bought zebronics 400 watts smps for 500 rupees last month.
    i want to add some graphics card like 8500 gt or gtx.
    is it needed to change my smps.
    if yes, could you recommend the best brand and configuration to ask for.
    if possible price too.

    And many thanks to the information.
    I think zebby 400w should be around 14-16 amps on +12v rail but not sure HOW reliable it is. Anything over that I am pretty sure its just another advertised gimmick. 8500 has only a gt version- not gtx. Besides 8500gt is not a gaming card- its just another low profile card. Which is your card that you are using right- do you really need 8500gt?
    When you making a post, make sure you mention your current config and your screen's resolution, reason for upgrade and maximum budget for any type of upgrade.

  10. #10
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Age
    26
    Liked
    0 times
    Posts
    338

    Default

    i am running with integrated video.
    intel dg35ec motherboard
    core 2 quad
    4 gb ram
    acer 14**X 7** resolution.
    creative speakers 4.1 inspire
    inbuild intel 5.1 hd sound card.

    my budget is around 4-5k. not more than that.because now only i upgraded to quad.
    you know my smps. its zebronics.
    any more info, please quote.
    Last edited by prasannaganesh; 12-18-08 at 08:26 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  11. #11
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Age
    26
    Liked
    0 times
    Posts
    107

    Default

    Assuming the fact that you are planning to buy a graphic card to play games
    8500GT is a low profile card. Its just an equivalent alternate to the onboards that you get- nothing special. Dont expect much gaming with new games. It might do certain games on low resolutions and low settings. If I were you, save some more money so that you can buy a decent card like 8600gt/ 9600gt and a better power supply cm 460w for 2.4k rather than wasting it on 8500gt. I have seen zebby 600w with a so called sli sticcker smoking out too many motherboards, hard drive failures and rams just killing itself & eventually and slowing killing the system after 3 months time. In this day of age- zebbys are not good- they were reliable once a upon a time. Even a Powersafe 500w gold is slightly better than zebby.
    As for the lower resolutions, stick to nvidia. Ati does look better and 4xxx seems to be pwining them royally- but they excel in higher wide screen resolutions.

  12. #12
    ShAdOwCoN
    Guest

    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by prasannaganesh View Post
    i am running with integrated video.
    intel dg35ec motherboard
    core 2 quad
    4 gb ram
    acer 14**X 7** resolution.
    creative speakers 4.1 inspire
    inbuild intel 5.1 hd sound card.

    my budget is around 4-5k. not more than that.because now only i upgraded to quad.
    you know my smps. its zebronics.
    any more info, please quote.
    Quote Originally Posted by The Sorcerer View Post
    Assuming the fact that you are planning to buy a graphic card to play games
    8500GT is a low profile card. Its just an equivalent alternate to the onboards that you get- nothing special. Dont expect much gaming with new games. It might do certain games on low resolutions and low settings. If I were you, save some more money so that you can buy a decent card like 8600gt/ 9600gt and a better power supply cm 460w for 2.4k rather than wasting it on 8500gt. I have seen zebby 600w with a so called sli sticcker smoking out too many motherboards, hard drive failures and rams just killing itself & eventually and slowing killing the system after 3 months time. In this day of age- zebbys are not good- they were reliable once a upon a time. Even a Powersafe 500w gold is slightly better than zebby.
    As for the lower resolutions, stick to nvidia. Ati does look better and 4xxx seems to be pwining them royally- but they excel in higher wide screen resolutions.
    ^^ is correct 8500GT is not a gaming card ....And its 512mb is actually a hybrid card which is equivalent only to a 256mb card

    And You get 8600GT 512MB for rs4k* - This is a true 512mb dedicated card

    You can also get the overclocked version
    8600GTS for rs 5k*


    *k=thousand
    *All pricing are online pricing and Street pricing should be lesser


    Check this thread for what i meant by Hybrid cards
    http://www.indiabroadband.net/deskto...-solution.html (What is Integrated and Dedicated Graphics solution ?)

  13. #13
    ShAdOwCoN
    Guest

    Default

    Yeah i have a friend who owns an 8500gt 512mb card

    Upto NFS Prostreet - You can set all graphics options to full

    Prince Of Persia upto 2 thrones-You can set all graphic options to full

    Company Of Heroes - Stutters and splutters at full settings .It gave around 30 Frame rates per second [unplayably slow]

    Crysis - Fits the minimum recommendation only . Increasing graphic options is ill advised

    Assasin's Creed -

    Dx9 version :- Even in minimum settings runs like a slide show

    Dx10 version:- Out of Question

    My other post went into mod Q ... wait for it ... it has some useful info

    @Sorcerer

    Sorry for the offtopic

  14. #14
    rajan1311
    Guest

    Default

    nice read thx 4 the info.

  15. #15
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Age
    26
    Liked
    0 times
    Posts
    107

    Default

    Nvidia 9500gt is just another rebadged nvidia 8500gt. Same applies for nvidia 8600gt and 9600gt. Nvidia 8600gt canbe bios flashed to 9600gt- and no performance boost- even when overclocked or on different screen resolution.

  16. #16
    rajan1311
    Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by The Sorcerer View Post
    Nvidia 9500gt is just another rebadged nvidia 8500gt. Same applies for nvidia 8600gt and 9600gt. Nvidia 8600gt canbe bios flashed to 9600gt- and no performance boost- even when overclocked or on different screen resolution.
    9500GT and 9600GT are not re branded.
    They are new. 9600GT is a LOT faster than 8600GT.
    see the specs here

    techpowerup.com/reviews/Biostar/GeForce_9600_GT/

    add the www and read the rest of the review.

    Quote Originally Posted by rajan1311 View Post
    9500GT and 9600GT are not re branded.
    They are new. 9600GT is a LOT faster than 8600GT.
    see the specs here :techpowerup.com/reviews/Biostar/GeForce_9600_GT/

    add the www and read the rest of the review.
    i hope i dont get another infraction !

    also,
    the 8500GT has 16 shader units, 9500GT has 32.
    so in a way 9500GT = 8600GT (close) performance wise.
    only thing is that the shader clock and core clock are a bit lesser (in 9500GT).
    Go chk wiki for the specs.
    link:
    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_Nvidia_graphics_processing_units

    found a review of 9500GT.
    I was wrong. The 9500GT is FASTER than 8600GT.
    9500GT is 2% slower than 8600GTS. Also, it is very OC'able.

    techpowerup.com/reviews/Galaxy/GeForce_9500_GT_Overclocked/26.html
    Last edited by rajan1311; 12-20-08 at 06:35 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  17. #17
    ShAdOwCoN
    Guest

    Default

    9500GT ddr2 512mb = rs 3900

  18. #18
    newprouser
    Guest

    Default

    excellent post ! gave u rep

    It would be nice if you could mention some 'local' smps brands which you, know to be of good quality.

  19. #19
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Age
    26
    Liked
    0 times
    Posts
    107

    Default

    ^^ It depends on your needs. Besides, its logical that one who buys processors like e8400 or quad core and the person is using it with an iball power supply needs to seriously be shot :P. I doubt there are many which are pretty decent. Certain VIP silver 400w have an active pfc. Unfortunatly, I have seen in many cases that even they have been rebadged. Why take chances with local power supply anyways? No manufacturer covers warranty if a part like rams, motherboard, hard drive, etc. is burnt. One should make efforts to buy a power supply.

  20. #20
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Age
    26
    Liked
    0 times
    Posts
    107

    Default

    There have been many updates since I made this guide. But I cant handle anything more than 2 forums- as it is I am taking case of chip and digit is being advised by bunch of idiots. If mods and admins can edit the 1st post for me, I will give the revised version including recommended psu as well.

  21. #21
    saurav_k
    Guest

    Default

    i somehow missed this thread/guide before as there were no replies here for many days. it really took some time to go through it. brilliant guide. :clap:

    reps added for you.

  22. #22
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Age
    26
    Liked
    0 times
    Posts
    107

    Default

    @ mods: I have the updated version. Would it be possible for you guys to update the first post if I pm the updated version. I have put on many Indian forums, but the new version has to be updated here as well.

  23. #23
    Amor vincit omnia
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Liked
    3 times
    Posts
    3,022

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by The Sorcerer View Post
    @ mods: I have the updated version. Would it be possible for you guys to update the first post if I pm the updated version. I have put on many Indian forums, but the new version has to be updated here as well.
    Keep up the good work. Reps added

  24. #24
    saurav_k
    Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by The Sorcerer View Post
    @ mods: I have the updated version. Would it be possible for you guys to update the first post if I pm the updated version. I have put on many Indian forums, but the new version has to be updated here as well.
    i will be waiting for the updated version ...

    mods/admin plz do the needful to have the updated version of this article here

  25. #25
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Age
    26
    Liked
    0 times
    Posts
    107

    Default

    Here is the updated version:


    Scaring the woolies out of people with this pic. So I thought I would make it more dramatic and scary using my silly little paint skills and my camera.
    Nothing great, but its a shame to run those fine hardware on a stupid psu. Issued in public interest.
    Alternate Link to this pic if you cant see it:
    http://www.imgx.org/pfiles/8081/untitled.JPG
    ====
    What is a power supply?
    In a nutshell, power supply converts AC into DC and distributes power to the power according to the pc's needs. There are 2 types of psu- the first is irrelevant and non feasible for a pc- even for an enthusiast. Second one is the one we use-switching mode power supplies AKA SMPS. I'll try to keep this advice as "non- technical" as possible, but if you cant understand, please make efforts to google it.
    Before we continue let me clarify 2 things-
    #1. just because a power is a 700 watt based psu which gives a 60 amps- doesnt mean it will consume all of it- If a pc requires less, it will take less or else more. If you buy an overpower psu and your system utilises 1/4 part of its potential, its a waste. As a good friend of mine told- the system should use atleast 75% of the power supplies' potential.
    #2. Just because full form of smps is switching mode power supplies- doesnt mean there's a switch behind. If you want to know what do they mean by switching, make some efforts and google for it.
    -
    What should you expect from this guide?
    I will not use any formulas and I will try to prevent any technical jargon as much as possible- but for God's sake make efforts to use google. Even I have a book knowledge. "Wattage = Voltage * Amperage" is something which even a 6th standard school boy knows. We are living in a section of the society run by economics. Very few manufacturers actually tell the truth on the specs on the side panel. Book knowledge is accessible by many, but street smart is something that is is acquired. This is just a guide but a ball in your court. Some people ask me via PM with great fascination about power supply, while there are certain individuals questioning something which is fact. Knowledge is meant to be spread- that is why I am being in number of forums I try to help what I can- but at the end of the day nothing beats research. Besides the ball is in your court- your money your wish.
    -
    Why think about power supply now?
    More systems becomes sophisticated but it will need a proper supply for pc's long term health. In reality- psu is responsible for more than half of the pc hardware problem. After the days of AMD 64 athlon, power supply is the vital part of the system. Till those days, l&c, VIP, ZEBRONICS, intex and some el cheapos like odessey. In those days, zebronics and l&c (now VIP) WERE good power supplies. Then came cm extreme 500w and the way we look at power supplies has changed a bit.
    -
    What are the problems from using underpowered power supply/el cheapo power supply?
    Anything. A low-quality power supply can cause several problems, which are mostly difficult to be solved. A defective or bad-intentioned power supply can lock the PC, can result in hard disk bad sectors, can result blue screen of death errors and random resets and freezings, added to many other problems. There have been cases that spikes have fried southbridge, northbridge and even onboard graphic and sound chips. Hard drive and ram are usually the first victims. People eventually spend 1000-5000 (depending on their system) to get it working. But in reality it works barely but its a damaged wreck. Prevention is better than cure, dont you think?
    -
    How do you judge a power supply?
    Not by watts- change that mentality if you have that. There have been cases that unethical dealers and even idiotic people give away the ones which bundle with silly cases. When you talk about these so called high performance power supply- they say its over exaggerated. Its a fact that dealers will try to sell away things which they have in stock and people have a bad habit of buying anything cheap. They need to learn some new set of words- VALUE FOR MONEY. People with half knowledge of computers claim that an average 800 watt can topple a "high performance" power supply with a rating of 400w. Tell them to wake up and smell the coffee- using half the knowledge is more dangerous than no knowledge at all. Power supply manufacturers over exaggerate- its a marketing gimmick. Most probably it pulls 800w from the socket but it will definatly give theoratical supply of 390w to the pc.
    -
    Why would an el cheapo rated 800w give only 390w? Where are the rest going to? How do I judge a power supply?
    There's something very important called efficiency. Higher the efficiency, lesser the power wasted. As I said before (if you read properly) power supply converts AC into DC. If you want to know what is AC and DC power- make efforts to google. When AC gets converted to DC- heat is produced. Major chunk of power is wasted on this heat. Its a reality that there wont be 100% power conversion for a feasible smps unless something ground breaking is invented. Quality of the pcb circuit board, quality and thickness of cabling, cooling, capacitors and other electric components with a good casing assures proper efficiency. Companies makes big promises but its an inevitable process that a well known pc enthusiast, reviewer and in some cases ethical and knowledgeable dealers will give you proper advice.
    In order to get a good enough power supply, you need to make efforts to google and use some common sense. Over the years have passed and the importance of +12v rails have come out. Its always necessary that you proper amps for your system. There An average system can survive with 19 amps on +12v rails.
    -
    What do you mean +12v rails?
    In a nutshell it powers majority of the system through many types of connectors. Here are the following connectors:
    Main motherboard connector- in old system its a 20 plug connector- in the new ones, they are 24 power connectors. It powers major chunk of your your motherboard. In most of the new age good performance power supply- 20 pin can be detatched from the 4 pin. That is why many companies call it as 20+4 connectors. But not all companies who say 20+4 connectors necessarily means 20 pin can be split from the 4.
    ATX12V connector- Its a 4 pin connector which powers another part of the motherboard. Its also a vital connector and must be connected at all times.
    EPS12V connector- Same purpose as the ATX12v connector. But it gives more power which is used by high end motherboards. It has a 8 pin port. Most good reputed power supplies can split EPs 12v connector into 2 atx12v connector. Other either have one EPS 12v connector or atx 12v connector.
    There are idiots out there (including so called engineers) who put atx 12v on a eatx12v plug (Note: some motherboards call the 8 pin plug on the mother either mention atx12v or eatx 12v) on the motherboard and expect it to run on full capacity. Its not that you cant do- but its best if you dont.
    PCI-E connector- Its a connector which powers your graphic card. Some use 6 pin, some use 8 pin. This is another scenario where you need to do justice to the system. If you are assembling it on your own, make efforts to read the manual. Through some miraculous effort some people manage to connect 8 pin EPS12V connector on a PCI-E plug on the graphic card. This is where people make another great mistake and a possibility of a short circuit increases. For once, make efforts to read the power supply's manual- they are with a power supply for a reason. Some psu manufacturers engrave the type of connectors on the connectors itself. Welcoming for many, but if its not- it doesnt hurt to read a power supply. Many power supply come with multiple pci-e connector. It means that they can power up more than one mid range-to-high end graphic cards. But its recommended if you have atleast 50 proven amps on the +12v rails- or else a burnt power supply will be the last thing in your mind.
    4 pin molex- This powers components like dvd writers, hard drives, 4 female pin molex connector based fans, fancy LED/cold cathode lights (used to decorate their system like a christmas tree) and stuff. In case of IDE type drivers, they connect the molex directly. But in case of sata- you need a sata power connector. While the new and proper have direct sata power connector, if you have old you can use molex to sata power converter. I doubt it costs more than 50 bucks, but you need to make sure that you get ample amount of sata power connectors and also molex connectors. Same thing applie for molex to pci-e converter. Majority of the companies gives this as an add-on with their graphic card. I would still recommend the direct ones.
    Sata power connector- A welcoming and a useful add-on on new age power supply. They are thin and it connects to sata based drives.
    Floppy connectors- Its a smaller sized connector which usually powers up floppy disks. However there are certain type of devices which requires floppy connectors- like sound cards. Asus have sound cards that require extra power. It makes sense than implementing a new type of connector. Something which you always get in standard supplies.
    -
    What is pfc?
    Long story made short- power factor correction. They simply contribute in regulating AC power input in the power supply. The modern ones we get are active pfc- or else they are obsolete and not recommended. If you want to know the difference, best if you meake efforts to google it.
    -
    How a cooling of a power supply is maintained?
    Fans and small heatsinks in certain components inside the psu. Usually the fans on the power supply suck air from inside to outside. Some fans are on the side where the cables come out from and others are on the base- usually with 120mm or even 140mm fan.Certain suck air from out to in and some blow air from in to out. Both are right but based on the pc case. The cases I prefer is where I can mount the powersupply on the base and there are air vents on the bottom. In any blow-suck air scenario fresh air is supplied and vented out- so there's always fresh air coming in and blown out. However there are also top mounted cases. If your room temps is around 27-28 degrees celcius in an average and ambience in the case is around 35 degrees Celcius and the power supply pushes air from inside to out- there's nothing to worry about. But if the air is blown from out to inside the case, there might be some disturbance. Overlockers will have some problems since the hot air from the power supply can interact with the heatsink which will disturb the basic air flow distribution funda.
    -
    What about dual/multiple rails
    There has been lots of confusion and misunderstanding about multiple +12v rails and honestly to figure it out is a time consuming work. So this is how it actually sounds like.
    According to the new ATX standard, +12v rails are divided into +12v1, +12v2 and list goes on. Based on the standard, 12V1 is the 12 volt rail powers everything except the CPU. 12V2 and anything more are the +12 volt rail which powers the CPU. They aren’t real +12v rail in the first place because almost always the power supply has only one circuit to generate the +12 V outputs. So in other words one +12v rails are split into 2 or more rails. Its like plugging a device with multiple on a single power socket. The worst possibility on a split +12v rail is balanced power distribution on the DC output. This is again where company's ethics and product quality and worksmanship comes into question. A single +12v rail does work in our system, but just to fulfill the criteria of the atx standard, rails are split.
    When building a high-powered computer, people (not just in India, but in other international countries) are often told misinformed that they should get a multi +12 volt rail PSU. The reason that they give is that multi 12 rail PSUs provide more power at 12 volts than single 12 volt rail PSUs. But that's not true AT ALL. If you think about it, they say that one must have a larger capacity of amps given on the +12v rails. As the point is true that demand of power on +12v rails that started making people to think about buying proper psu, there are more headaches using a multiple rail compared to a single rail. The confusion started when the standard says that 240 W in a DC output. They havent specified that it was actually supposed to be 240w per wire. Be warned- not all split +12v rail based psu doesnt follow the 240w per wire limitation. Intel has made certain efforts to display certain information about the power supplies they were able to get in hand. The power supplies and their OEMs mentioned here are only in regards to split +12v rails based. Although they werent able to put all of them due to the overwhelming brands of psu available all over the world.
    Intel® Boxed Products Technical Center - ATX12V Tested Power Supply List
    Unless the power supply with multiple +12v rails are tested properly and proven to be a good product, one should prevent dual/split +12v rails at all costs. Hopefully a day with come when the +12v rail funda will be back to normal with more clear information
    -
    So the money that I pay is only for the power supply?
    Nope. You also pay for the power cable as well. Some provide really good power cable for the power supply which has a blow fuse on the socket itself. If they are damaged due to a spike during power distribution- they will prevent. Note that the blow fuse on the surge protectors and on the power supply's power cable (if it has) will help only to prevent- not stop- any unexplained spike in power distribution. Sleeving and wire quality is also pretty important.
    -
    Is there anything wrong to go for modular
    Nope. Nothing wrong with it. You have to be sure that you plug in the wires properly though. That doesnt mean they will come out or anything.
    -
    Why do companies rip people off by putting fancy wattage
    I advise people- I dont work for manufacturers. Some small manufacturers pass under the scanner. Some manufacturers claim that it s a theoratical wattage calculation that us pulled from the power socket at maximum load and not the theoratical wattage on the DC output power so they get away from potential lawsuit. However not all are cheaters- some are very conservative in putting the wattage chap. This is where you need to learn to do research- nothing beats google....yet.
    -
    What about watts calculator- are they recommended?
    They calculate either maximum, average or minimum output- that's why calculations vary from one watts calculator to another. So it depends on the calculators you use. Besides the watts that are calculated are accurate. Mathematically they are, but you need to acknowledge that power supply will only pull more power from the socket if it needs to. If the system is idle- it takes low power- if you are using cpu or gpu intensive based programs, it will pull out more power.
    -
    But I have been using el cheapos for a long time- why should I make the change now?
    I would suggest to read the whole guide properly. Systems always change so certain precautions are needed. If you open your improper power supply, dont be suprised if you see some capacitors start to look like that picture. If you do, consider yourself lucky that your whole precious investment didnt come up in smoke.
    -
    How can you compare x brand power supply with another? There still have to be more than just amps on +12 v rails right?
    El cheapos PSUs have a over-rated and under powered- most 400w probably they are actually 100w-200w at most 300-320w lasting for 5 minutes if lucky. If you use your calculators and bit of imagination about the future- its still a bigger rip off- considering the risks and the contents. Poor design, ametuer soldering, bad and thin cabling, loss of certain caps and temperature de-rating largely accounts for a system to die faster. Dropping a high-end graphic card or large capacity hard drives into your rig will prove this point. Efficiency is something does make a difference especially running 24 x 7. There's no better way of saying this with another set of words: all the wasted power is dumped as heat, which means a hotter running PSU. Every power supply has its own wear and tear cons so it will eventually die- DEAL WITH IT. Something that you should also look for its life-span is the quality of components used. An el cheapo PSU when subjected to the abuse of a demanding system will be lucky to survive more than 2 years. Capacitors, pcb boards, fans, wiring, sleeving, soldering, caps, cooling and also casing does cost a lot of time, research and effort. Besides it is logic that any elctronic device generating heat is hamper its life. So you can say more efficiency= less power loss due to heat+ longer life. An el-cheapo PSU will often skip a few nice additions like: input EMI/RFI filter, power factor correction, surge suppression, thicker gauge cables, MOVs, all solid japanese Main caps, etc. It looks more like a fancy way to connect live electricity to your pc. They come with the case for crying out loud and cost 500 bucks-1000 bucks. They have to do something to earn profits afterall this is a world that earning Rs. 50 bucks on retail is pretty cut throat. Another thing you need to know is Voltage ripple. Every PSU has voltage ripple on its outputs. A higher amount of voltage ripple = hotter it runs = sooner it can fail. How does one test if a power supply has lower ripple or not- an oscilloscope and a load tester- AKA Automatic testing equipment. The oscilloscope used to make the measurement should be set to the proper bandwidth limit. In other words, lesser ripple it shows on load, better the psu. Load tester is a big bulky machine which separates men from boys. It is used to check how powerful a psu can be. If this test doesnt pass, its a crappy power supply.
    Don't expect el cheapos PSUs to have low voltage ripple- its just not feasible. Another thing you need to know is voltage regulation. If a PSU cannot regulate its outputs well, there is a much higher possibility that the psu will have a stability issue if the output drops too low under heavy load, or smoked hardware if an unloaded output shoots too high. El cheapo PSU's either do not include/have less amount of over-voltage and over-current circuit protection. In other words, if in case one of the wires or on of the rail goes spikes up, salvaging the power supply will be the last thing on your mind
    -
    Its just not feasible for me- come on there must be a better way- right?
    Here's the thing- cant afford a proper equally worthy psu, dont buy an equally worthy system. For people claiming that its better to buy 4 psu in 4 different occasions if it fails- rather than one psu, this is where economics will take over. As said before a good power will have better effiency and power is lost. So a good PSU gives you double the power at 5 times the cost, making it effectively 2.5 times more expensive. Then my following point conveys a message that you'd probably end up replacing your generic PSU 3-4 times more over a 5 yr period than a good unit. Which effectively makes your expense the same. Not to mention the additional bits/better components that are thrown into a better PSU making it a better value! Besides, there could be a chance that replacing psu wont be the only thing to be replaced.And then comes the poor quality output from an el cheapo PSU, your components can either die a slow death due to high voltage ripple or be taken out in one swoop whenever the PSU malfunctions (or it just smoke out of cause an explosion. Factor in the cost of replacing additional hardware, and the el cheapo PSU doesn't sound feasible in the long run- compared to extra investment in advance.
    If people have any questions, please feel free to ask me :-D
    -
    The list of recommended power supply
    Recommended psu for lower end
    Seventeam ST-420BKV 420W
    Pros:
    18 AWG on needed rails and 22 on floppy connector which doesnt need much power. fireproof rubber protection on ferrite coils to prevent any sparks.
    Thermal sensor on secondary heatsinks to control temps. Japanese electrolyte capacitors.Real time efficiency is between 70% and 80% on 50 degrees operational temps of 40. 26 amps on +12v rails. Seventeam famously known to make stable psu for servers.
    Cons:
    Availability and price unknown.
    -
    Coolermaster 460w extreme plus RS-460-PMSR-A3
    Pros:Better than efficency output against 420BKV. 70% efficiency on operational temps of 40 degrees celcius.
    Cons:All wires are 20 awg
    More of 430 W unit psu with in really good between 40%-60% load.
    No active pfc (Note: only RS-460-PMSP-A3 has active pfc)
    Noisy fan on load.
    -
    VIP silver 500w (bluish casing) OEM FSP AX500
    Pros: Responsibe passive pfc/ cheap/ reliable for a low end rig
    Fan controller controlled by thermal sensor
    Cons:sleeve bearing fan. Not exactly one of the loudest but surely not on of the quiet ones either. Quiet bearable if you see the price :P
    -
    Corsair cx400 400w
    Pros: scaled down version. 30 amps on +12v rails and 80% efficiency on operational temps of 40 degrees celcius.Active pfc- something you dont see in this kind of category. 3 year standard warranty.
    Cons: Expensive for a reason but its meant to be cheaper. Even if its 200 bucks cheaper its a cm 460 extreme plus knocker.
    ==
    Recommended psu for lower mid end
    Corsair vx450 OEM Seasonic
    Pros: Seasonic built- 500w. 80% efficiency on operational temps of 50 degrees celcius. Active pfc. dual-ball bearing
    120mm Adda fan.Really good and effective japanese electrolytic capacitor. The main capacitor is rated for 105°C unlike others rated 80 degrees. 33 amps on +12v rails on operational temps of 50 degrees celcius. Silent and cool even on 80% peak load. Really low ripple in voltages on idle and peak load. 5 years warranty backed up by tirupathi enterprises.
    Cons: Price.
    As a famous saying goes, one just cannot go wrong with a seasonic and their OEM.
    -
    Antec EarthWatts 500 W OEM Seasonic 500w
    Pros: Same as corsair vx450w since its the same OEM model. Bit better electrolytic capacitor.
    Cons: 3 years warranty- corsair vx450 gives 5 years. vx550 are known to use better quality caps. Doesnt means that caps used in vx450 and 500w are bad though
    -
    Recommended psu for "dead centre" end
    Corsair vx550-OEM channelwell
    Pros: similarity between tx750 and vx550 in terms of layouts. The heatsinks are bolted and had no issues.85% efficiency and 41 amps in +12v rails. Perfect for those who want ati 4870 type power hungry cards that take over 200w in load, but dont want to spend much on tx650 and still has some good room for overclocking. Same 120mm ADDA fan used on vx450 which is really quiet even on load
    Cons: Despite certain pretty older channelwell OEMs getting certain bad name, this is one solid power supply. Certain caps are near the heatsink but within acceptable distance.
    -
    Coolermaster real power 550w- OEM ACBEL POLYTECH INC (MODEL RS-550-ACAA-A1)
    Pros: 5 Year Warranty. Unlike extreme and extreme plus- this is the real deal. Professionally made, Wires are clamped to their respected connections inside the psu. Layout somewhat similar to CM iGreen 600w. Made in Taiwan based ltec capacitors. Cables are sleeved properly and cable ties are used inside the psu to prevent dangling. Professional soldering and fan is controlled by temperature sensor. Pretty low ripple and can run graphics cards which take around 230w on load- like vx550. Proven that they have 40-48 amps on +12v rails and didnt cut down capacitors.
    Cons: pretty few psu that are available in India clash head to head- corsair vx550 and RP 550w. It costs 4750 + local taxes and with 5 years warranty. Even it costs 5.2k, vx550 costs 5.7k. Only con is coolermaster's history mis-aligning the truth about extreme series power supplies. Also CM are known to change their OEMs in a pretty wild manner. Unless they dont any cost cutting and misaligning the truth, this is recommended
    ==
    Recommended psu for Upper mid end
    Antec EA650W OEM Seasonic
    Pros: Seasonic OEM built. cost. Even keeping the single layer pcb in mind, for 5.1k its a bargain since distris have insanely increased corsair's price for no reason.
    Con: single layer PCB compared to seasonic OEM of same power outputing using double layer. 3 +12v rails. 3 years warranty against tx650's 5 year warranty.
    -
    Corsair tx650 OEM Seasonic
    Pros: a total of eight cable sets, all neatly sleeved. Same high quality Japanese capacitors are used in other corsairs, rated for 105°C. 89 cfm based ADDA fan. he Aimed at the dual-video card, power-demanding, PC gaming user. 60amps amps on +12v rail can make many enthusiast happy. 5 years warranty acts more like a sign of confidence
    Cons: +12v rails known to have a bit higher ripple on maximum load after a long run.
    -
    Corsair hx620 OEM corsair
    Pros: THE legendary psu without a doubt. Hx series in the corsair family are known to win multiple award and for good reasons. 5 years warranty. The one of the first psu to make an efficient multiple rail psu with a meaty 50 amps on +12v rail which alone give output of 600w. Main capacitors are Nippon Chemicon rated at 105 degrees celcius. ADDA fan
    Cons: none. Tx 650 gives 10 amps more. Bad pricing on the distributors part- but one who buys either tx750/hx620/ earthwatts 650 wont go wrong with the decision. All are seasonic build with perhaps the same series.
    ===
    Recommended high end psu
    Corsair tx750 OEM Channelwell
    Pros: The famous yate loon 140mm fans covering the whole power supply. A massive Matsushita main capacitor. Low ripples on rails especially on loads. Hardware secrets bagged maximum power 900 W at 45º C. Just another corsairs- not an ordinary psu. Real time proven 83.4% efficiency on operational temps of 50 degrees celcius.
    Cons: Cables are really tough to handle in cable management that you wish this was a modular. Cant mention more since India gets very limited good psu. Fireproof rubber on the fuse to prevent any sparks.
    -
    Tagan BZ800

    Pros: Modular. Has very good AC ripple suppression on all of the DC outputs. Around 60 amps on +12v rails. All LED and bling should keep the kids happy. You get little black gloves :P.
    Con: 3 year warranty- shows good confidence over their product *sarcasm*. Not complete modular. Tagan must makes efforts to mention maximum operating temperature on the psu. Very quiet during normal operationon below 500W output which is not bad considering the bling. Not all appreciates bling and LED- especially on a psu. Even the tx650 can give 60amps on +12v rails.
    ===
    Mods please do the needful .

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. How to Increase Laptop Battery Power?
    By Preeti_20 in forum Laptop
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 02-09-10, 11:30 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •