The hill town of Dharamshala sits on a narrow ridgeline along the Dhauladhar range. The town is roughly divided into two sections - the lower town with its traditional settlement and market areas and the upper town of McLeodganj, famous for its celebrity resident, His Holiness The Dalai Lama. The heights of the two sections vary from 1,250 metres to about 1,770 metres with a steep winding 10 km road linking the two sections. Around a 150 kms from Mandi, this hill resort in the Kangra Valley of northern Himachal Pradesh is the most important town of the district.
Surrounded by pine forests, the grand Dhauladhar ranges tower like sheets of rock over Dharamshala. Once a British hill resort, this sleepy little hill town revived with the influx of Tibetan refugees after Chinese occupation in 1959. The Dalai Lama set up his temporary residence at McLeodganj. Many western visitors have come to Dharamshala in search of spiritual guidance and an audience with the Dalai Lama. In McLeodganj, the Tibetans run most of the hotels and restaurants as well as handicrafts shops.
The lower town of Dharamshala is crowded with shops, local houses and government offices and the Museum of Kangra Art. McLeodganj has a distinctly different character, with its brightly painted buildings, Buddhist temples, prayer flags fluttering in the air and saffron monks and nuns hurrying along the streets. The main Buddhist temple or Tsuglagkhang is a five-minute walk from the bazaar.
The residence of His Holiness the Dalai Lama is surrounded by high walls and sits on the edge of a cliff overlooking the valley. The Dip Thekchen Choeling Monastery nearby stands out with its golden roof amidst tall pine forests. The Library, open from Monday till Friday, has an exhaustive collection of books, manuscripts, and archival photographs on Tibet.
Besides the overpowering Tibetan presence, a few remaining Raj edifices like the Church of St. John in the Wilderness are worth visiting. And if you want to make excursions out of Dharmshala, visit the pretty Kangra towns of Palampur, Naddi and Andretta.
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